SPECIAL EDITION

Volume IV No.11                        Nicholas Scrolls                         February 2009

The Land where GOD walked as a Man

Part Five

 

Shalom, brethren, friends and neighbors,

 

Our journey continues through the land of Israel in this continuing account of my pilgrimage to the Middle East. I hope and pray that you are enjoying my accounts of the places we have visited as much as I am enjoying writing of our travels and sharing them with you. In Part 4 of this Special Edition series we continued traveling about the Galilee visiting the cursed cities of Chorazin, Bethsaida and Capernaum. I also shared with you the gospel accounts of the “Sermon on the Mount” as well as the feeding of 5000. We then dined on Saint Peter’s fish, witnessing first hand the effectiveness of Godly prayer and I shared our baptismal experience in the crystalline clear waters of the Jordan River.

 

Part 5 will take us to the most northern part of Israel not far from the Syrian and Lebanon border beginning with a visit to the ancient city of Dan. Before we headed out this day, I awoke early after a restful night and prayed in a new day. My thoughts were still very troubled about my daughter’s announcement of joining the United States Navy. But now, my mind being a little more clear on what troubled me, I was feeling disappointment of the news more because Renée had promised me she would not enlist in the Navy if I took her with me to Israel. So, while I was struggling to accept that she was a young adult (21) and able to make her own choices in life, I was feeling a profound disappointment that she had deceived me keeping the matter a secret until we had landed in Tiberias. I thought to myself that this did not speak well of her character and it still troubles me today. I would ask all who read this that they join me in prayerful solicitation for God to use this situation for good and to make Renée useful towards achieving His will no matter where her choices take her.

 

Tel Dan Nature Reserve

 

Traveling north again from our hotel in Tiberias, we headed for the Tel Dan Nature Reserve. Northern Israel is the richest part in flora and fauna and is also where three river systems feed into the Jordan providing Israel its main source of water. Located in a 120 acre reserve, the springs that feed the River Dan surface here supporting a diverse ecosystem of plant and animal life. Seen from the Dan Reserve, the snow capped Mount Hermon is the source of these underground springs that bubble up making this site home to one of Israel’s oldest civilizations.

 

Until the 1967 “Six Day War,” the Dan River was the Jordan River’s only source of water that was under Israeli control. The other two river systems feeding into the Jordan are from the Hermon and Snir Rivers which produce half what the Dan produces. The Dan springs form the largest karstic spring in the Middle East.

The preservation of this watershed is critical to Israel’s survival. Dan is located at the northern end and along the border of that hotly contested area known as the Golan Heights which Israel took back from its Arab neighbors. Just days before the war started and ended, the Dan Reserve was at risk of loosing its natural course as there were efforts being taken by the Syrians to divert the river’s waters carrying them away from Israeli lands. A sophisticated aqua-duct system had been constructed by the Syrians in an attempt to capitalize on its 238 cubic meters of annual water flow. Had Israel not been so successful in one of history’s shortest recorded wars, they might have never been able to recover from what would have become a perpetual drought. That is why I mentioned earlier in this series the critical importance of Israel maintaining its ownership and control of the Golan Heights. This area should remain non-negotiable in any future Israeli-Arab peace agreements. Israel cannot afford to relinquish control of her most precious water source.

 

Flora and Fauna of the Dan Reserve

 

Entering onto the well groomed trail of the Reserve we were entreated to bird song coming from the tall trees flanking both sides of the trail. A quick eye can see jay’s flying about. Though difficult to spot, the trained ear can hear the chirping of Cetti warblers nesting in the thickets and rarer is the sight of white wagtails which sometimes nest on little islands situated within the tributaries of the Dan River. We stopped a short distance down the path in a place named, “The Garden of Eden.” Though this of course is not the original local for the Genesis garden, it serves well as a place to sit quietly and contemplate its beauty and the sounds of nature. Here and further along the trail one sees a plethora of plant diversity like the flowering Purple loosestrife, Jerusalem thorn, Syrian ash, Laurel and Alaternus. Typical riverbank vegetation also adds to the Reserve’s richness with the presence of holy bramble, common hemp agrimony, galingale, bedstraw, cynanchum and willow herb.

 

Looking intently into the calmer tributaries, one might catch a glimpse of little fish scurrying about called, Damascus barbells or see a Jordan loach identified by its pale yellow skin with dark spots on its back. Amphibians like the fire salamander share this ecosystem with snails and tiny little crabs called amphipodes. A water bug known as the hydrometrid which feeds on mosquito larvae helps to keep the nasty buggers under control in this mostly shaded environment. Though we didn’t see any, small forest mammals also share this rich ecosystem like the Cairo spiny mouse, tristram’s jird and the broad-toothed mouse, a nocturnal Mediterranean rodent which feeds primarily on acorns.

 

Ancient Dan formerly known as Laish

 

Excavations originally began in 1966, led by Professor Avraham Biran. What he uncovered were the impressive ruins of an ancient settlement complete with formidable stone walls, gates and the site of Jeroboam’s transgression. The earliest known structures belong to the Ceramic Neolithic Age at the beginning of the fifth millennium BC when the Canaanite’s first settled here building a city. The city was populated between 2700 and 2400 BC. In the eighteenth century BC, during the middle Canaanite period, an earthen glacis (mound forming an earthen wall) surrounded the city protecting it for many centuries. This Tell or hill as we call it is identified with the city of Laish, captured by the tribe of Dan. Having difficulty in their dealings with the Philistines, the tribe of Dan settled in the north: Judges 18:27-29 “And they took the things which Micah had made, and the priest which he had, and came unto Laish, unto a people that were at quiet and secure: and they smote them with the edge of the sword, and burnt the city with fire. And there was no deliverer, because it was far from Zidon, and they had no business with any man; and it was in the valley that lies by Bethrehob. And they built a city, and dwelt therein. And they called the name of the city Dan, after the name of Dan their father, who was born unto Israel: howbeit the name of the city was Laish at the first.”

 

Though we did not get to visit the museum at Beit Ussishkin, it is there where relics were uncovered from a Mycenaean grave found at the Dan reserve. One such relic was a piece of fossilized tablet dating back to the second half of the 9th century BC. Carved on its surface is an inscription from Hazael, King of Damascus, boasting of his victory over the King of Israel and the King of the House of David. This is the first significant archeological find discovered that has the words inscribed upon its surface, “House of David” outside of scriptural recordings. This is but one of many archeological treasures discovered that completely support the accuracy of history recorded in ancient biblical texts.

 

Ritual Site of the Golden Calf

 

As we approached the infamous “High Place,” the path changes from a nicely groomed forest trail to a paved avenue made of the same kind of basalt stones we’ve seen used elsewhere in building construction. We’re told these very stones have served to mark this trail since the time of ancient monarchy – that is, what is recorded for us in the two Books of Kings. The larger stones are all original and some areas of the pathway containing smaller paving stones were added in recent times to restore millennia of wear and tear. We were literally walking on the same paving stones that were laid down after the 12th century BC. It is largely believed by archeologists that this area was generally inhabited by Israelites during the settlement period in the 12th century BC, a time before any of these existing structures and dwellings were built.

 

The stone paved road takes you all the way to the ritual site where Jeroboam lied to the children of Israel under his charge, building a golden calf and placing it upon “the High Place,” telling them, this was the god that delivered them out of Egypt. Though our bibles speak of a Temple in Dan as early as the 12th century BC, the earliest ritual artifacts discovered thus far are dated to the time of Jeroboam. Jeroboam led the people’s revolt against the heavy taxes levied by Rehoboam, son of Solomon. In 930 BC, the Kingdom was divided and Jeroboam established ritual centers in Bethel and Dan. After erecting a golden calf in Dan, he constructed a Temple building to house the sacrificial high places.

 

A metal frame in the shape of an altar now stands where the original altar of sacrifice was constructed to give visitors and idea of the scale of such a construct. During the period this ritual site was being used, the same stone walls still standing to this day have withstood the ravages of time, wars and circumstance. It is understood that the early settlers added walls, stories, chambers and courtyards in various places opening up existing partitions. The original altar stood in front of a large platform made of finely chiseled stones. Near this area, archeologists discovered a round reservoir containing many animal bones dating back to the Hellenistic period. On the western side of this site, small altar rooms and priestly chambers were discovered containing a number of special implements used in the offering of incense. A stone wall built in the Hellenistic period surrounds the entire ritual site. Here, an inscription was found in Greek and Aramaic, “to the god who is in Dan.” Archeologists and scholars believe this site was used for ritual purposes until the Roman period.

 

1 Kings 12:27-29 “If this people go up to do sacrifice in the house of the LORD at Jerusalem, then shall the heart of this people turn again unto their lord, even unto Rehoboam king of Judah, and they shall kill me, and go again to Rehoboam king of Judah. Whereupon the king took counsel, and made two calves of gold, and said unto them, It is too much for you to go up to Jerusalem: behold thy gods, O Israel, which brought thee up out of the land of Egypt. And he set the one in Bethel, and the other put he in Dan.”

 

Just above this site is an old “command-post outlook” used by the Israeli Defense Forces during the 1967 Six Day War. This site overlooks the huge valley below showing Lebanon to the north and northwest of our position and Syria to the east and northeast. I took Renée through the cramped trenches which led to an underground bunker that once housed a large automatic machine gun. The former gun’s turret was still in its original place. From here you can get a perfect view of Mount Hermon and also see the Syrian earthworks that were built to divert waters from the Hazbani River. Down below we saw the abandoned Syrian command post Nuheila and off in the distance the village of Al-Ayam.

 

The Ancient Canaanite Gate

 

Continuing along the stone paved path, the trail turns back into the tree lined forest trail filled with birds perched among the tree branches singing their lovely songs. Not far from the ritual site we happen upon a great find; most probably Israel’s oldest known man-made structure – the Canaanite Gate. This particular dig site is very delicate and still very much an active project. Scientists had a large Teflon roof built over the site to protect it from the elements and a fence is set on its perimeter to keep curious visitors from venturing too close risking damage to this precious find. Approximately 50 acres of this 120 acre Park expose remnants of a city dating back to the 18th century BC. The Canaanite Gate is located at the southwestern corner of the glacis mentioned earlier. Professor Biran is accredited for discovering the 7 meter high “mud-brick” structure of which 47 courses are preserved. Most remarkable about this discovery is that the Gate remains completely intact. Its arch shaped lintel is one of the earliest known complete arches found in the world and one of the only ones still standing to this day. Not much had changed at this site since my 2006 tour as the walls of this structure are most delicate slowing excavation efforts.

 

This location could very well be the place where Abraham passed through going into Sichem and Moreh. Genesis 12:6 “And Abram passed through the land unto the place of Sichem, unto the plain of Moreh. And the Canaanite was then in the land.” Other passages in scripture also confirm this region to once have been the land of the Canaanites who were eventually destroyed never allowed to be among those counted in the House of the Lord. Zechariah 14:21 “Yea, every pot in Jerusalem and in Judah shall be holiness unto the LORD of hosts: and all they that sacrifice shall come and take of them, and seethe therein: and in that day there shall be no more the Canaanite in the house of the LORD of hosts.”

 

Descending down the path past the Canaanite gate we pass “settlement pits” that archeologists have dug up discovering various tools and artifacts belonging to a sparse community generally thought to have been part of an Israelite settlement from the 12th century BC. Descending further we again start seeing massive sized structures built of large basalt stones leading to the main gate of an ancient Israelite city from the time of Ahab. Continuing toward the gate being careful not to twist our ankles (paving stones are very large and irregular) you are led to an observation platform which offers a view of the entire gate complex.

 

Passing through the gate one notices a formidable threshold, stone door-step and the indentations where hinges were once located securing a massive sized doorway. All these are said to be original structure and are in remarkable condition. The gate appears to be almost indestructible by its dimension and thickness constructed from three pairs of beams. Passing through into a large court yard entirely paved with these large basaltic stones, you begin to marvel at the immense city wall standing as it has for many millennia. The wall was also built of large basalt stones topped with hewn travertine (limestone) blocks. Its no wonder these structures have survived so many millennia having been built to survive invading armies. To the left was a bench where it is said that here city elders sat and visiting delegations came making offerings to the king of the city. Much of this city and the massive wall was built during the first temple period.

 

Settlement in the Dan Nature Reserve spans several millennia of biblical history. Mentioned more than a dozen times as a city in Old Testament passages, it became a place of forbidden idolatry and transgression under the rule of Jeroboam. Note that the Tribe of Dan were to be judged according to the Law just as the Tribes of Israel were so commanded. Genesis 49:16 “Dan shall judge his people, as one of the tribes of Israel.”

In the end they all perished and were not counted as a member among the 12 Tribes of Israel. Thus they are not listed among the 144,000 (Rev. 7:5-8) that will become the Jewish remnant in the New Millennium when Christ will rule and reign in righteousness.

 

Before boarding our bus and heading to Banias, our tour group meandered through an avocado grove adjoining the reserve. Though the fruit was not yet ready to eat, a number of our group shook tree limbs to gather some fresh avocados before jumping on board.

 

Hermon Stream Nature Reserve

 

Traveling deeper into the north along highway 90 we saw open fields fenced and left unattended as we neared Banias. Hela, our tour guide tells us that many of these fields to the right or left of the highway along route 90 are still filled with active land mines left over from the Syrians during the 1967 War. She tells us that every once in a while a cow will wander off into these open fields and get itself pulverized by an old land mine; “Hamburger anyone?” We were now as close as we were going to get to the Syrian border and at one point we passed Syrian security check-point just feet from the roadway on our way out of Banias.

 

If the knowledge of our being near active land mines wasn’t unsettling enough we were in for a real treat upon entering the Hermon Stream Nature Reserve at Banias. Upon arriving at Banias and disembarking our tour bus we saw several Israeli police and military vehicles parked right in front of the walk-in gate. I could see that one of the vehicles was a “Bomb Squad Unit” and with its back doors left open I could see one of those remote controlled robotic vehicles used by so many metro police and SWAT teams in our own country. Not being allowed to enter the Park we gathered near the entrance gate as park attendants informed us there has been a security bomb alert inside the park. The bomb squad was dispatched to investigate and minimize the threat. After about 30 minutes watching the heavily armored men run electrical cables from the gate to a place inside the park, attaching them to a control box, a warning was sounded, “Fire in the hole!” A boom went off and one of the officers proceeded back into the park where the threatening package was destroyed. Moments later he walked out carrying a ragged backpack, like any used by high school and college students in his left hand and two mutilated US Passports in his right hand. Oops!

 

Evidently, some member of a tour group had left his backpack behind in the park earlier that day. With the Hamas rocket attack just 36 hours earlier in southern Israel, authorities couldn’t take any chances that tourist destinations might also be a target for terrorism. I pondered briefly the poor souls whose Passports were just blown up and just how difficult it might be for them to get replacements while in Israel before returning home. Certainly, that became a matter for the State Department and US Embassy. I then wondered how many times this scene has repeated itself in countries around the world since the World Trade Center tragedy in 2001? As in this case, it usually is a simple matter of misplaced baggage. So, let this be a lesson learned if you don’t want your personal effects blown to smithereens while on vacation, hold on to your stuff!

 

It is here where much of the Jordan River’s waters originate from. Hermon stream flows from Mount Hermon as rainfall and snow melt percolates through the ground into naturally formed limestone aquifers surfacing above ground not far from Banias. Its tributaries, the Sa’ar stream (Wadi Hashba), the Si’on stream (Wadi Asal) and the Guveta stream contribute about 20% of Hermon Stream’s annual flow comprising 125 million cubic meters of water (1/4 of the Jordan River) per year. Most of these waters emerge at the base of Banias Cave where the pagan Temple of Pan was located. The Hermon stream flows about three kilometers through a canyon slope producing the 10 meter high Banias waterfall as it continues down to the Hula valley. Nine kilometers to the south near the Kibbutz Sde Nehemia, the Hermon joins with the River Dan forming the Jordan River. The plentiful water supply nourish the tree lined stream beds and forest areas producing a rich eco system much like that which we saw at the Dan Nature Reserve. Walking along the stream paths below the pool area in front of the Pan Temple, we saw quite a healthy school of hungry fish resembling trout called Haffaf (Capoeta damsacina). No fishing is allowed here as this is a protected Nature Reserve but it sure was tempting!

 

As some of you will surmise, the pagan worship of Pan in Israel got its start around 332 BC after Alexander the Great conquered the region bringing with him Greek culture and influence. A Panaeon was constructed honoring the Greek god of nature. Carved right out of a solid rock face 70 meters long and 40 meters high, its name was derived from the name of the deity, Paneas. The name Banias is according to its Arabic pronunciation. The cave itself, a prominent feature is 20 meters wide by 15 meters high sometimes referred to as the “Gates of Hell.” It is said that many a human sacrifice was offered here to appease the god Pan. Today, the walls of the cave are wet in places forming pools of water below which likely coincides with the aforementioned springs that well up at the cave’s base. This place referred to as Panaeon, first appears in the works of the Greek historian, Xenon of Rhodes. His accounts tell of a battle that took place at Panaeon in 200 BC between the Seleucids and the Ptolemies who were fighting for control over the Land of Israel.

 

At the end of the 1st century BC about the time that Jesus was born, the Romans annexed Paneas to the Kingdom of Herod the Great. Flavius Josephus, the Jewish historian records that Herod built a Temple close to the springs and dedicated it to his patron, the Roman Emperor Agustus. After Herod’s death, his kingdom was divided between his three sons. Northern Israel and the Golan Heights were awarded to Philip who made Paneas the Capitol of his Kingdom. He renamed the place, Caesarea Philippi which we find mentioned in our Bibles. Though the name, Paneas persisted, it continued to be the Capitol of the Kingdom during the reign of King Agrippa II through the second half of the first century AD.

 

Not much remains of the Temple that was dedicated to the Emperor Agustus but its foundation stones and some broken columns which are left still standing mark the entrance to the site and along the front face of the cliff. Carved into the face of the cliff are several niches where the statues of Pan and other Greek gods once stood. The heavy stone stairways hewn out of limestone and marble show extensive wearing from the foot traffic of visitors over two millennia. One of the most important proclamations Jesus ever made took place right here at Caesarea Philippi. After Peter correctly answered Jesus question, “Who do the people say that I am?” saying, that “Thou art the Christ, the Son of the living God,”

Matthew 16:17-19 Jesus answered and said unto him, “Blessed art thou, Simon Barjona: for flesh and blood hath not revealed it unto thee, but my Father which is in heaven. And I say also unto thee, that thou art Peter (Cephas), and upon this rock I will build my church; and the gates of hell shall not prevail against it.  And I will give unto thee the keys of the kingdom of heaven: and whatsoever thou shalt bind on earth shall be bound in heaven: and whatsoever thou shalt loose on earth shall be loosed in heaven.”

 

Despite what the Book of Mark indicates of Jesus’ travels, the early church fathers (Roman Catholic Church) identified this Paneas as the place where Jesus healed the “woman who had been subject to bleeding.” The early church fathers further claim that “In gratitude, the woman placed a statue of Jesus at the door of her house,” making this most probably the first statue of Jesus ever made. Bull-hockey, I say! You really have to watch those Catholics. They are so steeply entrenched into idolatry that they have to find ways to justify their many graven images. Though I disagree with the RCC position, it is worthy here to recount this miracle once again.

 

Mark 5:25-34 And a certain woman, which had an issue of blood twelve years, And had suffered many things of many physicians, and had spent all that she had, and was nothing bettered, but rather grew worse, When she had heard of Jesus, came in the press behind, and touched his garment. For she said, “If I may touch but his clothes, I shall be whole.” And straightway the fountain of her blood was dried up; and she felt in her body that she was healed of that plague. And Jesus, immediately knowing in himself that virtue had gone out of him, turned him about in the press, and said, “Who touched my clothes?” And his disciples said unto him, Thou sees the multitude thronging thee, and sayest thou, ‘Who touched me?’ And he looked round about to see her that had done this thing. But the woman fearing and trembling, knowing what was done in her, came and fell down before him, and told him all the truth. And he said unto her, “Daughter, thy faith hath made thee whole; go in peace, and be whole of thy plague.”

 

With the rise of Christianity during the Byzantine era during the beginning of the 4th century AD, Paneas began to change its character. The pagan worship of Pan came to an end and the temples were abandoned. Yet the city continued to prosper and the Palace of Agrippa II located nearby was converted to a bathhouse. Though time did not allow, Banias has many attractions and ancient ruins scattered about. It would take at least a five hour day to tour all that can be seen at this Park. The surrounding areas include fortresses built by the Muslims during their ruling period as well as the Crusaders who defeated the Muslims but only held onto the region for a short period (188 yrs.) before relinquishing control back to the Islamic Empire after loosing the Battle of Hattin to Saladin.

 

Paneas declined to not much more than village status after the Muslim conquest in the 7th century AD but was again revitalized in the 10th century AD with Muslim waves of immigration. Jews were also allowed to immigrate back into Israel under Islamic rule and when they settled in Banias (Paneas) they organized themselves into Jerusalem and Babylonian communities. The Karaite sect which was an offshoot of Judaism also settled here during this period of renewal.

The Crusaders and the Muslims

 

The Roman Catholic Crusaders regarded the location of Banias to be a natural border between their Kingdom in Palestine (Israel) and the neighboring Muslim realm whose center was the city of Damascus. Because of its location on the crossroads between Tyre and Sidon in Lebanon, Banias was regarded as a strategic asset by the occupying forces of Islamic armies. In response to the Crusader conquest of the Galilee in 1099 AD, the Muslims fortified Banias and the nearby Nimrod fortress to the east. Members of the Ismailiya sect took control of Banias but in 1129 AD, with internal strife plaguing the Muslim armies with quarreling, the Crusaders were able to gain control of Banias for a few short years. In 1132 AD, the Muslims recaptured Banias maintaining control of the north front.

 

After Saladin defeated the Crusaders in 1187 AD at the Battle of Hattin, Banias declined in importance. The Mamelukes did fortify the city but finally abandoned its fortress which was then taken over by belligerent Bedouin chieftains. Banias was once again reduced to mere village status and so it remained until the area was conquered by the Israeli Defense Forces in the 1967 Six Day War. Shortly afterwards, Israeli authorities began archeological studies of the area eventually preserving it and turning it into the Nature Reserve it is today. For those of you who are interested, I published an extensive Scroll detailing the history of Israel under Islamic rule and the Crusades that were launched by the Pope in an effort to take back what was considered to be Christian territory belonging to the Church at Rome (RCC). The link to this Scroll is archived on my web ministry at http://www.nicholas-scrolls.com/archive_volume_2_number_18.html

 

Leaving the Hermon Stream Nature Reserve we stopped a short distance away at a Druze village to have lunch. Druze villages are scattered all about northern Israel. Their faith and practice is somewhat different having both a mix of Jewish and Christian applications. On both tours, 2006 & 2008, we made it a point to taste a popular food served by the Druze. It is called Falafel which is a pita bread type sandwich. Pastor Noah Hutchings jestingly calls them “Jewish tacos.” They are prepared a number of ways using a variety of fresh vegetables and sometimes with a combination of meat. We had falafel for lunch several times on this trip as it makes for a quick and easy meal for the traveler. After lunch, we boarded our bus and headed south through the mined territory of the Golan Heights to Mount Bentel.

 

A strategic stronghold for the Israeli Defense Forces, Bentel is one of two mountains named after two brothers that gave the IDF great advantage during their defeat of Syrian forces in the 1967 Six Day War. The mountain top was a stark contrast to the lush Reserves we had just traveled from. It was windy, cold and rather unappealing as a tourist stop. The view however was stunning and provided for clear vantage of occupying forces and enemy encampments below. From the top, the famous “Road to Damascus leading into Lebanon can clearly be seen. To the right, the mountains of Syria where the IDF successfully pushed Syrian forces some 25 kilometers back behind their own border. This is the heart of the Golan Heights, the biblical Land of Bashan.

The perimeter of the mountain top was still surrounded by barbed razor wire and we toured through an impressive underground bunker system that protected Israeli forces from rocket attacks during their campaign. There was a small café and coffee shop located on the site and after walking around the perimeter of the mountain top viewing the relics of wars past and taking in the 360 degree view of the valley below, we stepped inside out of the cold to get a hot espresso before continuing our journey to Gamala.   

 

The Golan Heights is referred to as the Land of Bashan in our Bibles. Mentioned in the Book of Ezekiel, this is where the armies of Gog are destined to be destroyed.  Ezekiel 39:11-12 “And it shall come to pass in that day, that I will give unto Gog a place there of graves in Israel, the valley of the passengers on the east of the sea: and it shall stop the noses of the passengers: and there shall they bury Gog and all his multitude: and they shall call it The valley of Hamongog.   And seven months shall the house of Israel be burying of them, that they may cleanse the land.”

 

Gamala Nature Reserve

 

Gamala is located on a high plains plateau above the Sea of Galilee east of its location. The topography of this area is mountainous with many switchbacks on the roads leading to the Reserve. Because of our delay at Banias due to the bomb threat, we arrived late, just 20 minutes before the Park was closing and the Park Ranger refused our entrance. Sadly, Renée did not get to see it as I did in my 2006 tour. This area is significant for several reasons so I will share with you what I experienced in my prior pilgrimage.

 

There is a nicely groomed path winding through the park that takes you past many flowering plants and grasses as you proceed to the canyon site. Except for a scant number of scattered building remnants used to decorate the pathway, there is not much to see in the way of ancient ruins. There is however an abundance of wildlife here, especially fowl. Many birds occupy the Gamala reserve. The largest among them are the vultures. I had not seen so many vultures in one place since I was in Florida. It gives one cause to ponder what kind of food source supports such a large colony of vultures? Pastor Noah Hutchings thinks that this is a prophetic sign of the soon coming war that will take place destroying the armies of Gog. The prophet Ezekiel tells us that all the beasts of the earth and the fowl will gather in Bashan and will eat of men’s flesh and drink of their blood.

 

  Ezekiel 39:17-18 “And, thou son of man, thus saith the Lord GOD; Speak unto every feathered fowl, and to every beast of the field, Assemble yourselves, and come; gather yourselves on every side to my sacrifice that I do sacrifice for you, even a great sacrifice upon the mountains of Israel, that ye may eat flesh, and drink blood.   Ye shall eat the flesh of the mighty, and drink the blood of the princes of the earth, of rams, of lambs, and of goats, of bullocks, all of them fatlings of Bashan.”

 

Gamala is also historically significant for being the place where 5000 Jewish rebels plunged to their deaths in 66 AD in order to escape capture by the invading Roman armies. It was here under the Command of the Jewish historian, Flavius Josephus that the Jews held out for two years before being overcome. Similar to the fate of Jews at Masada in that the Jews felt strongly that it was better to die fighting for their freedom than to be captured and live as Roman slaves. But, also different in that this suicidal act occurred before the destruction of the Second Temple at Jerusalem whereas the Jews at Masada took their own lives after the Temple in Jerusalem was destroyed.

 

The trail leads to the canyon crest where the Jews were said to have leaped to their deaths. The canyon walls are very steep. The pitch of the slope at the top makes it impossible to get close enough to see the bottom of the canyon. Down below one hears the waterfalls and sees a rich forest fed by one of the tributaries leading to the Sea of Galilee. The forest is teaming with all kinds of biblical animal life which is yet another sign of prophetic fulfillment.

 

Isaiah 34:14-15 “The wild beasts of the desert shall also meet with the wild beasts of the island, and the satyr shall cry to his fellow; the screech owl also shall rest there, and find for herself a place of rest. There shall the great owl make her nest, and lie, and hatch, and gather under her shadow: there shall the vultures also be gathered, every one with her mate.”

 

Thousands of Roman soldiers died during their assault on 9000 Jews at Gamala including women, children and infants holding out in a city construct which they built on the steep slopes of the canyon walls. This made it difficult for the Roman Garrisons to reach the Jews. Josephus records that the houses were built on steep precipices, one over the top of another. He records that as numbers of Roman and Syrian soldiers did gain entry into some of the upper houses, they collapsed under the weight of too many men, one house falling on top of another and so on down the steep canyon cliffs. The invasion though difficult, continued despite the heavy losses of Vespasian’s soldiers.

 

A great wind stirred up during this battle making it difficult for the Roman arrows to hit their targets but also for the Jews scrambling upon the precipices for they too would loose their footing falling to their own demise. The Romans, angry over the heavy losses they were taking increased their rage and added to their numbers completely surrounding the Jews. “A great number also of those that were surrounded on every side, and despaired of escaping, threw their children and wives, and themselves also down the precipices into the valley beneath, which, near the citadel, had been dug hollow to a vast depth; but so it happened that the anger of the Romans appeared not to be so extravagant as was the madness of those that were now taken, while the Romans slew but four thousand, whereas the number of those that had thrown themselves down was found to be five thousand;… they spared not so much as the infants; of whom many were flung down by them from the citadel. And thus was Gamala taken.” Flavius Josephus – Wars of the Jews

 

Last Night in Tiberias

 

Disappointed that we did not get to see Gamala this time, I reflected on my prior visit and shared with Renée the best that I could what she missed at this site. On our exiting the Reserve, we caught a better view of the forested canyon with its vertical steep cliffs as the tour bus descended in elevation toward the Sea of Galilee. The sun was starting to dip low on the western horizon making for some really beautiful sunset horizon photos spanning as far as the eye could see, westward over the entire region of Galilee.

 

This was going to be our last night in Tiberias so after dinner, Renée and I went down to the lobby to visit my friends who own and run the gift shops. I let her barter for a reasonable price on selected jewelry but later we found out that the diamond was zirconia which didn’t please my daughter. By then it was too late to exchange for we were already in Jerusalem. I tried to comfort her telling her that it was still a beautiful ring and will be a keepsake to remember her journey to Israel with Papa.

 

 END

Part Five

 

With all Sincerity and love for the truth and my scattered brethren abroad,

 

Nicholas A. Stivers – a humbled God-fearing disciple, scribe and messenger                                                                  

http://nicholas-scrolls.com

http://cephasministry.com                                                                                                                         

 

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